Joanna O'Donnell visits a spectacular hidden gem in London which was created by a Weymouth man
If someone invited you to see one of the most spectacular Baroque interiors in Europe, most of us would imagine ourselves jetting off to Rome or perhaps Florence.
But my actual destination, whilst seemingly less glamorous, was considerably cheaper and much easier to reach.
The Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College (ORNC) in Greenwich, London, will - without fail - take your breath away. Known as Britain’s Sistine Chapel, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to weep with joy.
It shows around 200 figures across more than 3,700 square metres telling a tale of political change, scientific and cultural achievements, naval endeavours and commercial enterprise.
Best of all – it was created by one of our own!
This myriad of drama, passion, history and flamboyance was painted by Weymouth-born artist James Thornhill.
He was born in Melcombe Regis in 1675 and in 1689 he was apprenticed to Thomas Highmore, a specialist in non-figurative decorative painting. In 1707 he was given the commission to decorate the hall, which he duly did - over a 19 year period.
And as the political landscape of Britain changed, so did the design of the paintings.
You can lie back on comfortable seats in the hall and look up and swoon at the beauty of this work, which is truly the jewel in the ORNC's crown, but with the bar set so high, the rest is beyond impressive.
These extraordinary buildings, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, were built Thames-side and on the site of Greenwich Palace.
I challenge anyone to stand in the Grand Square, the mind-blowingly beautiful space between the twin domes of the ORNC and not salivate. In one direction you can look across to London, the glass towers of Canary Wharf and back to the domes and that classic, timeless view famously painted by Canaletto.
It’s like stepping back in time, and it’s no wonder so many film makers are drawn to this location to make movies, including most recently Napoleon and in 2013 Thor: The Dark World.
Chances are you’ll be similarly wowed by the St Peter and St Paul Chapel with its richly decorated ceiling, naval themes, and exceptional altarpiece. It’s now regarded as one of the finest neo-classical interiors in existence.
Nothing of the original Greenwich Palace survives above ground but you can still see its foundations.
Admission to the ORNC also includes entrance to the Victorian Skittle Alley, a rare example of an early skittle alley, with a fascinating insight into the lives of the Greenwich Pensioners who inhabited the site.
The visitor centre includes a new exhibition which allows you to step into back in time to the 18th century, and discover the history and appeal of chocolate with a recreation of Grace and Thomas Tosier’s famous ‘royal’ Chocolate House.
The ORNC is in the heart of the Maritime Greenwich UNESCO World Heritage site and is a short walk from the Cutty Sark Dockland Light Railway (DLR) station.
It was an easy 30 minute journey from our five star boutique hotel in the heart of the City of London, Vintry and Mercer.
We travelled to London Waterloo from Dorchester South with South Western Railway. Vintry and Mercer is two minutes’ walk from Mansion House tube station, which can be easily reached from Waterloo, changing at Embankment, via the Northern or Bakerloo lines and then hopping on a Circle or District line.
This elegant hotel is sited on picturesque Garlick Street among the livery halls and narrow streets that line the bank of the Thames.
We enjoyed a delicious meal at its rooftop Mercer Restaurant, from where you can see the iconic dome of nearby St Paul’s Cathedral contrasted with the glass tip of The Shard. My Colne Valley lamb Barnsley chop, served with garden leaf salad, grilled field mushrooms and vine tomatoes really hit the spot after a day of sight-seeing.
Having just seen England torturously squeeze through another Euro 2024 match in the jubilantly atmospheric nearby Pavilion End pub, my husband continued the celebrations with English favourite fish and chips – Peterhead cod with triple cooked chips, crushed peas and tartar sauce.
After scoffing two unique desserts – me; Kentish strawberry Bakewell tart with mascarpone, strawberry and basil gel with vanilla ice-cream and him; Morello cherry and chocolate gateaux with chocolate ganache and cherry sorbet, it was the perfect way to round off a London visit with a difference.
A sightseeing trip to one of London’s lesser known attractions out at Greenwich coupled with a stay in the less touristy Square Mile meant that this was a delightfully peaceful excursion to the Big Smoke.
Our beautifully designed hotel room was like a haven of tranquillity with feature wallpaper and dotted with antiquities, a contrast to the bustle of the city on its doorstep.
We enjoyed an excellent night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, resolving to make a return visit and see more of London’s ‘hidden gem’ attractions.
Joanna O'Donnell visited London courtesy of Transport for London, which has partnered with the Old Royal Naval College until November 17.
- Customers receive 30% off the entry fee when they show proof of travelling on the TfL transport network on the day
- It’s applicable for up to four adults in one transaction when they book tickets in advance on ORNC’s website (only one person needs to show proof)
- Up to four children aged under 11 years old travel for free with a fare-paying adult on TfL's network. Children aged 17 and under can also get free or discounted travel with a Zip Oyster photocard.
- This offer excludes every first Sunday of the month
- For more information on Vintry & Mercer Hotel, see the website vintryandmercer.com
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