WITH the news that friends were visiting for the weekend from London, the initial thought was ‘where can we take them that is typically rural, accessible and has good food?’ We settled on the Thimble because it matched up to the first two criteria and we had heard reviews that made us pretty sure it would tick the final box as well.

The Thimble is in the heart of the pretty village of Piddlehinton, nestled deep in the Piddle Valley.

What our party lacked in size, it made up for in noise so it’s probably just as well that the only table we could find was in the darts-playing zone, tucked away to the side of the bar.

We might have been out of sight, but were certainly not ignored by the landlord and staff who kept popping round to check we were OK or ready to order. This took time as there was a rich and varied menu to choose from and at the time, we were too busy talking to make up our minds.

The choice included a variety of steak dishes, pies, chicken and game dishes. There are also alternatives for vegetarians, children and diners looking for something lighter, plus a traditional Sunday carvery.

Whittling down the choices to just one dish put everyone in something of a dilemma and it took some time to make that vital final decision.

I opted for the homemade pork burger because the beef version had already sold out. At home, burgers usually only come out during barbecue season and I spend the rest of the year searching for the best pub burger. All too often my quest ends up at something like charred shoe leather.

The fish pie, which was recommended by the landlord and contained a shoal of different species supplied by the ever-reputable Samways of Bridport, was added to the order and our final diner fancied something unfussy and simple, so chose ham, eggs and chips.

I have since learned that people travel from far and wide to sample the Thimble’s burgers and I can see why. Plump and succulent without being greasy, they are hearty without being overwhelming and are utterly delicious. The onion rings were just perfect, rich and moreish and I loved the way the chips – crispy on the outside, floury inside – came in their own little wire container. In keeping with the rest of the meal, the salad garnish stood heads above the usual monotonous iceberg lettuce and hard, tasteless tomatoes you get in many pubs.

Thumbs-up too to the fish pie, which came packed with meat and was deliciously creamy and rich, topped with the lightest mash. The accompanying vegetables were cooked to perfection. And the ham and eggs were just what ham and eggs should be – simple but sustaining and perfectly prepared.

Despite the size of our main courses, some still had room for puddings and this is another field where the Thimble excels.

Hand-made desserts are always available and the range of ice creams swings from the traditional to the original in the form of Blue Vinney cheese ice cream and orange and basil.

One of our party chose a chocolate brownie which was delightfully rich and dense, while the stand-out dish was the crème brulee, which came with a pot of strawberry coulis and a dainty little scone.

It is original thinking like this that works so well.

• The Thimble Inn, 14, High Street, Piddlehinton, Dorchester, Dorset DT2 7TD, call 01300 348270.

THE BILL

2 x pork and apple burgers £19.90

1 x ham, egg and chips £9.95

2 x Fish pie £19

1 x orange and basil ice cream £1.30

1 x Crème brulee £4.95

1 x chocolate brownie £4.95

2 x pineapple and lemonade £4.20

1 x Dorset Gold £3.20

1 x lemonade dash 40p

1 x lime dash 40p

1 x half-pint of soda 65p

1 x bottle Coke £1.85

Total: £70.70