THERE’S something fishy going on down a back alley in Dorchester. It’s a dining experience a little like a restaurant but it’s arguably more like going to see an old friend who’s hosting a dinner party.

Seafood lover that I am, I’ve been nagging my colleague to come dine with me at Billy the Fish, just off Trinity Street, for some time now.

And in true fishwife style, the nagging paid off.

Looking for a light and relaxing lunch, we didn’t gamble on so much entertainment being thrown in as well.

This is mostly down to owner Bill Burgess and his charming chef act, who serves up droll humour as well as some of the best seafood you have ever tasted from his open-plan kitchen.

The décor is reminiscent of the inside of one of those beach huts you read about that sells for eye-watering amounts.

Think ramshackle chic coupled with a favourite auntie’s cosy kitchen.

The menu, which changes daily, lists a diverse choice of seafood, ranging from whole Dover sole priced at £18 to fish fingers and garnish for £6.50.

Prices may seem a little high for a light lunch, especially when extras such as loaded sauté potatoes and an organic salad come in at £3.50 each, but you are paying for freshness served with finesse.

Diners can see their dish go from fridge to pan to plate, with a little bit of Billy banter thrown into the mix.

Never before in a restaurant have I seen a customer ask for the chef’s autograph – as was the case with one impressed young diner, who was eating with her family.

And just when you thought the situation couldn’t get any more Twilight Zone, a diner from another table began taking photos of the restaurant and, then, of the bemused chef, who she described as a ‘local celebrity’.

You’d think that this level of absurdity would act as over-compensation for average food.

Far from it – the monkfish tail that I selected, opting for a small lunch-sized portion, was the freshest I have ever tasted and was truly melt-in-your mouth delicious.

The sauté potatoes were beautifully flavoured and the salad was a varied selection of leaves, pepper and onion and was perfect for two to share.

My colleague opted for one of Billy’s specials – potted crab flavoured with whiskey, with toast and garnish and fresh herbs.

His verdict was that it was bursting with flavour with a subtle hint of whiskey and a generous portion of chunky toast, making for a hearty lunch.

We settled upon an Eton Mess to share to round off our gluttonous lunch hour and, right on cue, Billy appeared with a tale of how he had picked the blackberries we were enjoying from a secret location.

To say that dining with Billy is a unique experience is an understatement.

It’s so far away from a bland, nondescript restaurant experience that I really can’t fault it.

You could say I’m truly hooked.